Dresden June 2010

Germany - Dresden

We arrived by train in Dresden on Tuesday in the afternoon. Our hotel was across from the train station so quite convenient. Dresden is very interesting as it was almost totally destroyed during the Allied firebombing in 13-15^th February 1945. The pictures of the devastation are quite incredible. Due to this destruction everything has had to be rebuilt. As a result of the reconstruction you can see where the original materials were used and where they have had to recreate the structures with modern materials. Consequently there is this curious Disneyesque or museum-like quality to the environment. This is in no way a criticism as they have gone to great lengths to use original materials and techniques to recreate these treasures. To me (Fraser), the most interesting feature was the space that is afforded. In most old towns with their narrow streets it is very difficult to gain a larger perspective or better vantage point of the magnificent architecture. In Dresden there are spacious squares and plazas in front of the major buildings allowing one to apprehend the entire structure at once.

We stopped for a break on Brühl's Terrace next to the Elbe River, a lovely place to have a cup of tea and some ice cream. It has been called the “balcony of Europe”

Brühl's Terrace

Looking backward toward the Old Town we saw this lovely little street named Munzgasse that has lots of cafes and shops. In the background you can see the Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady).

Munzgasse

As we left Munzgasse and entered the Neumarkt we passed the Ontario Café which serves such Canadian staples as Spargesalat Kanadische Art mit Eismeershrimps und Sleinofenbaguette. Have you had yours yet today?

Ontario Cafe

In the Neumarkt we saw the iconic Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) a beautiful baroque dome originally built in the mid-1700’s. It withstood the first two days of carpet bombing but eventually during the firestorm the temperature inside and out reached 1,000 C at which point the pillars glowed red and exploded as the dome collapsed. It sat as a heap of rubble during the Soviet rule and has been rebuilt since then using as much of the original materials and techniques as possible. You can see the blackened stones interspersed throughout the building. You can also see the altar and chancel that remained standing on the left hand side of building distinguishable by their darker colour.

Frauenkirche

Here is a view of the lovely market (Neumarkt) surrounded by cafes that face the Frauenkirche. Most of the buildings have been rebuilt in an old style but the occasional modern one has slipped in such as the narrow glass infill building behind the statue of Martin Luther in the middle of the square.

Town Square

This next is a view of the Semperoper Opera House taken from the viewing platform at the Green Vaults. This building is where many of the works of Richard Strauss where premiered. You can see the Theatreplatz in front of it as well as the Zwinger Palace and fortress built by Augustus the Strong in the early 1700’s.

Semperoper

This is a view of the interior courtyard at the Green Vault showing some of the reconstruction techniques. The buildings are covered in a façade painted to look like the finished product. It is actually quite a charming technique. In some places the façade actually hides the scaffolding where the reconstruction takes place.

Green Vault inner courtyard

We have no pictures of the Green Vault as they do not allow cameras or cell phones but it is spectacular. It is apparently the largest collection of treasures in Europe. Built by Augustus the Strong the rooms were destroyed during the Allied carpet bombing but the treasures had been safeguarded. The rooms have been painstakingly rebuilt using the same techniques. It is an overwhelming series of rooms each containing more treasures than the last.

That’s all we have for Dresden. Next stop Prague.